joi, 23 iunie 2011

"The capital of civilizations" – Turkey – day II and III (April 10th and 11th 2011)

    It's Sunday, we awake from a deep, restful sleep, well deserved after yesterday’s rush. Istanbul is already awakened and full of life, with all the locals and tourists in the streets. There’s a feeling of a tourist town.


    We take a traditional Turkish breakfast: eggs, cheese, tomatoes and tea, the omnipresent Turkish tea. We check the horses,  collect some of the luggage and start walking through the city.
    Topkapi Castle, sitting boldly on the banks of the Bosphorus, looks over the city, appearing proud and superior. The former residence of the sultans, now the castle receives his visitors with the air of a wise, old man, tired of the same old story, told and repeated over and over again.


    Near the castle stands Hagia Sophia, bold, colourful and a little “strange” with a mixture of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture.

    Over the small park with a market, Sultanahmet, with a beautiful garden and splendid fountain, guarded by a fairytale Turkish guy, guards the Blue Mosque, called like this because of the blue mosaic interior.

    One thing should be noted about Istanbul, cats and tulips feel like home in this city. The cats are bored and lethargic, almost indifferent to the bustle of the city, and the tulips ... just tulips, the most beautiful flowers.

    We don’t get around with English, there seems to be a language not accepted by the Turks, but to our surprise, Romanian seems to be spoken by more and more merchants trying to sell us everything. And they have a way to convince you, that they could sell you also something you do not need and afterwards you’d be convinced you've made a good deal. I'm not good at negotiating, but something that works most often is "take it or leave it." I weight in at that price, I calculate a fair price, I offer the amount, if he accepts I buy, if not I say goodbye, the bazaar is filled with other products. So far, this strategy has worked, but by the quick acceptance of the traders, I think that I still offer too much. However, we both seem to be satisfied with the deal.
    We finish Sunday with a ride on the Bosphorus, taking a boat that shows us both parts of the city, separated by the Bosphorus, by traveling on the border between the two continents. Sun fades away over the golden waters of the Golden Horn, proving us hence its name.



    It's Monday already and we have to face a new day.
    The Turks, although aggressive in attracting the customers, are friendly, smile, make conversation, as they possibly can. I practiced so much the gymnastic language, that I may not make one sound and I still make myself understood by the Turks.
    Turkish tea is surely the city emblem. Everywhere we went, patrons, whether they had a small boutique or a large carpet department store, are dressed in a suit, smoking "like a Turk" and staying with the habitual tea in hand.
    In the bazaar, a huge congestion of small shops where you can get lost very easily, people swarm in all directions, like in a beehive, each of them worried and rushed as if they have to solve the most important mission. Only the two of us walk slowly, looking here and there, avoiding eye contact with sellers, in whose eyes - if you looked at once - would be able to follow you all day to convince you that you need that rug, scarf or whatever they are selling.

    We observe something interesting and pleasant at the same time: Turks like Romanians, especially Romanian riders. Many people in the bazaar, and not only, chat with us, hoping we would show them our engines, because the motorcycle jackets prove what we are.
    We must admit that in Istanbul, like the rest of Turkey, motorcycling is fashionable, albeit on a smaller scale, a technical scale in cc, and a poor level of safety. You can see everywhere 125cc bikes, mostly CBF 125 and CBR 125, the helmet is an optional instrument, and when available, it is held on the arm, sort of an armrest.
    Also in the bazaar, while buying one small Turkish costume for my swet Smurf, I negociate the price with the seller, because negociations got into my blood. The guy, let’s call him Farhad, because, he should forgive me, I forgot his name, accepts the price I offered, not before admitting that he accepted this price only because I am a biker. He himself was a kite in the past, he explain us in poor English, while using few verbs, but he quit riding after an accident that cost him two teeth. He confesses that he would ride again, although he does it nowadays, but very slowly and regularly because his fiancee, let’s call her Farhaza, doe not agree with him riding. I make jokes, with a little nostalgia, because of his passion for motorcycle and his fiancée, whom he cannot reconcile, and then we say goodbye, after he gives us a card with his phone number in case we need something, says Farhad. We thank you Farhad and we wish you good luck with your motorcycle and your fiancée.
    Upon leaving the bazaar, we notice a gold selling shop where we hear people speaking Romanian. We find out that the store's owners are Romanians and the store is Romanian. Very interesting, we came to sell gold to the Turks.
    After we finish buying souvenirs and other presents, we eat boiled corn, and then we go to a cafe-tearoom-hookah smoking place to satisfy a dwarf, (dancing in my head): I want to sit cross-legged, drink tea and smoke nargileh. And yes, I did it. We felt so good that we were laying on the sofa like pashas, steaming slowly and dreaming. We were awakened to the reality by a "Turk" who said that we are not in a hotel, here we only drink and leave. We get up and leave reluctantly, however this stop was been a wonderful recreation, we felt Turkish indeed.
    Turkish food is tasty and well made, well seasoned and looks appetizing. After having visited a technical museum and the water tank of 'Stamboul from Ottoman times, we stop at the terrace of the friend we made during the first evening, who proved to be the best English speaker so far in Turkey. He explains some aspects of Istanbul, luxury taxes, the high price of gasoline, electronics 'Made in Syria', the neighborhood where the Turks drink, although religion forbids it, urban congestion, different driving styles in town, and many more stuff that he thinks we might be interested as tourists.

    In the evening, we walk slowly through the streets of the old town. At one corner, an Ottoman dressed Turkish and selling sorbet syrup, is calling us to take pictures with him. The Ottoman is so compelling that we take the photos and we imediatly wake up with two cups of syrup poured from an old vessel which he is carried in the back, with a swan or dragon neck. After we thank him and before we leave, it crosses my mind to leave him a tip. I notice, stupefied,  that he refuses the two pounds, he asks for 14. Mr Ottoman, you may be Turkish, well dressed, talkative and apparently nice, but you either take the two pounds or nothing. Seeing that we are serious and start leaving, he takes the money, claiming that he made a discount because we are Romanian. It is true that in Turkey, everything is negotiable, but that's plain robbery.

    We continue our journey, forgetting the episode "automatisk Ottoman Antik", then we go to the hostel where we accommodated in 'Stanbul, because in the morning we start again, on the Turkish conquest.

Good night, for the last time, 'Stanbul, capital city of civilizations, thank you for hosting!

sâmbătă, 4 iunie 2011

“Feminine intuition” – Turkey – Day 1 (Saturday 9th, 2011)

      Since I am such scatterbrained, I managed to get up at 4:28 AM, after the clock has rung three times in a row.
After struggling for ages with mounting the luggage on my angel, after getting dressed as I was going into space, we started the journey close to 6:00 AM, being somewhat confident that we have enough time to wander the approximately 600 kilometers, by our approximations.


      The first 60 kilometers were easily covered and it was quite soon when we arrived close to the Bulgaria customs at Giurgiu - Ruse, where the Danube is crossed by the bridge bearing the same name.
      It was only after customs when we realized that we haven’t got a map and we haven’t printed the route – that we’d worked on two weeks before. The solution of the moment, was Ioana, a GPS I have purchased almost two years before in case of a theoretical journey to Copenhagen. Ioana responds promptly to our call and directs us to the south, with a small deviation to the east, not at all noticed in the beginning.
      This precise short deviation was later proved to be a pilotage error. This is what happens if I trust a woman, especially when it comes to space orientation. Ioana really wanted to take us to our destination – Istanbul – the only problem was the fact that she chose the "shortest route". It was the shortest route indeed, but without taking into account road conditions and their type, only the number of kilometers. So we learned on experience, or better said on our horses experience, how great Bulgarian roads are. First of all, the Bulgarians are the ones who invented the patched patchy of a patch. And all that on the European roads. On the national roads, pits were all over the place, but they did not bother at all the locals who raced unopposed, without the smallest worry in the world. Not to mention other types of roads, since I would probably offend the humblest road, forest road, cart path, chamois path, or whatever you may think of.
      We leave Bulgarians to take care of their own roads - they can curse them themselves, we have our own to be preoccupied by. We succeed in fixing Ioana’s pilotage mistake and we exit on the European road that should takes us to the Turkish customs, close to Edirne, where we initially had planned, and we let the horses gallop the Bulgarian highway ... partly unfinished, but at least a highway. Oh, excuse me, a thoroughfare, how our Bulgarian neighbors proudly call it.
      Once at Turkish customs, formalities, passports, insurance papers, finally "Welcome" and we're on Ottoman territory.


      We stop at a gas station, with restaurant and shops, to swallow something, since it’s already 8 PM and it's a bit late. Bulgarian roads have changed our plans.
      At this stop, we encounter Turks, they do not accept credit card, they want cash. We have no money, we pay by plastic. Hmm ... What do we do? Aren’t we going to eat after all? "Light bulb" ... I remember the euro coins my father diligently collected, bless him, and let the negotiation begin, with full hand of coins. Dana counted over 10 Euros. Very well, I think, I can get something out of 10 EUR, and I negotiate two menus at € 9. Perfect! I have already saved 1 EUR. We sit at a table and wait confidently for our food, while counting the 9 euros we promised. I start counting and counting, but I lost the track around 7 euros point something. No, I must be wrong, let’s get back to the abacus. There are still 7.85 euros on the table. Critical, I don’t get those "over 10 euros." Well, even here I have not checked the settings, one may also be on “the shortest”.


      And this moment is precisely when the feminine intuition kicks in and correct the bug, one thing that Ioana cannot do in 10,000 years. Dana manages to change 10 RON into 5 Turkish lira, which we added to the amount we had to pay for our meal, that, by the way, was delicious. Furthermore, we get rid of all the thoughts of washing the dishes, so that we pay the difference.
      We give thanks for our delicious meals and teas that we received from an admirer of our horses, we get up and get ready for the gallop. Night is near, and we still have 240 km to Istanbul and no accommodation booked.
      Turkish Highway is very good, we cannot complain, we ride easily. Boredom made us discover a way of traveling just like fighters: horses love to ride one front wheel near the other, and of course four eyes can see better than two.
      Close to midnight, when I started shivering with cold, we get to Istanbul. Here I started exchanging the shivering, from cold shivering to trembling with fear. In Istanbul there is no traffic, there is no chaotic driving, no giddy traffic. No, it's a real fight! A fight that our horses, already tired of the entire journey, have no chance of winning in front of the four-wheel monsters with unnecessary yellow sidelights.
It was then when my attention was put to a test. An eye at Ioana that leads us where it’s supposed this time, I believe with a little bit of shame on her part. An eye in the mirror not to lose Dana and 10 eyes in all the other parts, to escape from all the Turks, Berbers and Ottomans flowing as a sea from all sides, caring too little that we – too - are on the battlefield. Or it may be because they have smelled the Vlach flavor and they’re doing it on purpose.
      Driving in Turkey is called survival! Once we arrived in the desired area with hostels, we are still very careful since you may be smashed even on the sidewalk, we try our luck at the hostels. After my four failed attempts, Dana tries one hostel. Yeah, the woman! Of course, they’ve got a free room, a pretty good one, and cheap as well.


We tied the horses as the locals (soon to become friends) advised us. Of course, if we are from Romania, "ce faci? (how are you) , Hagi!, esti binie? (are you ok?)".
      After we released the horses from their burdens, we settled into the room and went to a well deserved and deep sleep, after more then 700 kilometers.
Good night Istanbul!


The Turkish adventure (the beginnings)

The Turkish adventure began from an idea, two people, two motorcycles and absolutely nothing prepared in advance.
The route originally established was: Bucharest - Istanbul - Bursa - Mustafakemalpaşa - Canakkale - Bourgas - Bucharest.

The journey was supposed to be a short tour of the Sea of Marmara and included the passage of the two straits, the Bosphorus and Dardanelles.

Protagonists: Dana riding her Tigaie and me riding my Argos.

This blog was born just for the sole purpose of telling this adventure.
So let the story be told…and the words follow each other!